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Hama Rikyu Detached Palace Garden
The Hama Rikyu Detached Palace Garden, south of Tokyo central, is 25 hectares (62 acres) of Tokyo's greenest and most finely landscaped real estate. In the 17th century it was the happy hunting ground for the Tokugawa shogunate but passed into the hands of the good citizens of Tokyo, post WWII. The park is actually on an island, cut off from the surrounding metropolis by an ancient walled moat and accessible by only one entrance over the Nanmon Bridge.

The park is a popular venue for a stroll because it feels deceptively large and has all that water. The huge Shiori Pond is a focal point for visitors but its tidal pools, teahouses, bridges, pine trees, and pavilions for moon-watching all contribute to the garden's charm and photogenic appeal.

An entry fee of US$3 ensures that the Hama Rikyu is one of the quieter and less-congested areas of Tokyo, although this is waived for disabled visitors (and one companion).

Imperial Palace


The Japanese emperor and the imperial family still call the Imperial Palace home, so unless you get a royal invite to tea tourists are restricted to the outskirts and the gardens. New Year's Day (2 January) and 23 December (the Emperor's birthday) are the only exceptions to this rule.

The biggest drawcard of the Imperial Palace, both literally and metaphorically, is Edo-jo castle. From the 17th century until the Meiji Restoration, it was used as the impregnable fortress of the ruling shogunate. Over the years the castle was upgraded, added to, renovated and built onto with all the force of a rabid renovator. For a while it was the largest castle in the world but all the DIY'ing came to an abrupt end when large portions of it were destroyed in the transfer of power from shogun back to emperor during the Meiji Restoration.

The Imperial East Garden is entered through one of three gates although the most popular is the Ote-mon, which was once the principle gate of Edo-jo. The garden is an oasis of quiet after the bustle of Tokyo, and characteristically Japanese; a horizon of clear lines, an attention to detail and the religious placement of objects within the landscape.
Ueno-koen park
If Ginza is for shopping, Ueno-koen Park is for strolling, museum-hopping and temple-gazing. The area of Ueno was historically the Alamo of the last shogunate - site of his futile last-ditch effort to prevent a takeover by the imperial army. Today it's a carefully landscaped park dotted with museums, temples and a not-half-bad zoo.

Attractions inside the park include the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art (if contemporary art is your bag this is a good place to start), the Tokyo National Museum, the National Science Museum, the National Museum of Western Art (not only does the building house some impressive examples of western art, the building itself was built by Le Corbusier and the garden contains original Rodins including his iconic sculpture,The Thinker), the Tokyo Metropolitan Festival Hall and the Ueno-no-Mori Art Museum, which often has calligraphy exhibitions scheduled.

One of the most frequently and fervently patronised temples in Ueno-koen park is the Kiyomizu Kannon-do Temple. Women wishing to conceive leave a doll here for the 1000-armed goddess senju Kannon; after the dolls are burnt in an annual bonfire on 25 September, the women wait to see if Kannon has granted them the gift of fertility.

Ginza
Despite its disaster-ridden history and propensity for transformation, Ginza has become synonymous with conspicuous consumption and excessive shopping. At the end of the 19th century, after fire razed it to the ground, it was resurrected in a London-cum-faux-Parisian style with brick buildings and wide boulevards that mimicked the Champs-Elysees. Since then, earthquakes and WWII carpet-bombing have seen it gradually transform from continental chic to transatlantic functional, but it still pulls in the crowds.

There are some jejune shopping districts that have tried to wrestle the crown from Ginza - they're more crowded, more opulent and hipper - but the grande old dame of ostentatious spending stills retains her imperious snob value. Serious shoppers don't leave town without swinging through the doors of Matsuya, Mitsukoshi and Wako department stores. The Ginza strip is where you can purchase novelty items, whose fetishistic value far outweighs their functional value, and indulge in a spot of retail therapy. Window-shopping is free, though, and the window displays in the department stores are works of installation art in themselves.

The Sony building, at the Sukiyabashi intersection, is a must-see for all cyberjunkies, digi-devotees, www.zoids and Playstation groupies. Any electronic gizmo that has ever been invented is here, as well as some yet-to-be-retailed prototypes. The building itself is a rather phlegmatic version of 60s architecture - a lot of function over form - but with eight storeys of unadulterated electronic heaven, who cares about the packaging.
Shinjuku
The Shinjuku district is, without doubt, the most vigorous part of Tokyo; two million people per day pass through Shinjuku subway station alone. With a total lack of irony or tongue-in-cheekness, the two sides - east and west - sit side-by-side in mutual harmony; west Shinjuku is the staid, buttoned-down commercial hub of the city, while the east is its colourful, seedy and exotic counterpart. The west is planned, administrative and skyscrapered, while the east side is rambling, chaotic and full of fast-food joints and pawn shops.

Wandering the east side you'll see the entire world go by while simultaneously having your senses assaulted by archetypal Blade Runner video billboards on the Studio Alta building, a popular meeting place for Tokyoites. Other east-side attractions include Hanazono-jinja shrine, the many department stores and the colourful if risque Kabukicho and Golden Gai areas.

Tokyo Disneyland
You could be forgiven for assuming that the country that invented fake waves would jump at the chance to out-Disney Disneyland, so it comes as something of a shock to see such uncharacteristic restraint. Surprisingly, Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and most of Walt's other empire-building giant toys have been respectfully left alone, and much of Tokyo Disneyland is an exact replica of the Californian amusement park. Next door there is the new Disney Sea resort. Each of the seven 'Ports of Call' are based on a different concept, from mermaids and galleons to Cape Cod and futuristic marinas.

To get there, take the Tozai subway line to Urayasu station and then follow the signs for the bus that will take you straight to Disneyland and on into Tomorrowland. Alternatively, take the Yurakucho subway line to Shin-Kiba station and the JR Keiyo line to Maihama station, which is right in front of Disneyland's main gates.
 

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